
- Edge Cut. Were the edges cut straight? That is, were they cut at a straight 90-angle? This is the first sign of skipped steps. Quality leatherworkers round the edges with a beveler. Just like a kitchen countertop, the edges get beveled at 45 degree angles on both sides so the edge is "bullnosed." This rounded edge is much more tactile and visually appealing, just like rounded crown molding is more visually appealing in a room.
- Edge Color. Are the edges a homogenous color, perhaps a darker color than the surface of the piece? This is a sign that the leathercrafter took time to make the edges look finished by edge dyeing. If you can see the natural leather color sandwiched between the dyed surfaces, then run away. This is a clear sign of a lack of attention to detail. This of course only applies to the outer edges of a piece. It would be impractical to dye the cut surfaces inside hardware holes, for example, but we'll talk about those more in a minute.
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Edge Sheen. Are the edged burnished? This is a step that most manufacturers skip, and a tradition that we are proud to keep alive. Burnishing melts waxes into the edges for durability and a long life by sealing the edges and smoothing the rough nap. Burnished edges have a waxy, glossy sheen.
Photo credit: Erin Berzel for DK Publishing
- Interior Dye Penetration. To get clues on the coloring method used, look inside the hardware holes to see the interior of the leather. Do you see the natural leather color, sandwiched in the middle? If so, it was either poorly done in a drum, or airbrushed, or hand-dyed.
- Backside Color. Hand-dyeing is usually easily identified by having natural, undyed leather on the backside or underside. This can be an advantage for a bag, where the lighter interior can be easier to see inside for locating keys in dark corners, and is also better for objects or documents that need archival protection because there is no off-gassing.
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Surface Texture. Hand-dyeing can also be identified by taking a critical look at the surface: natural scars and mars that are enhanced by the dye, and slight variations in the dye saturation across the surface indicate the wabi-sabi imperfection of handcraft. Hand-dyed surfaces have an unmistakeable natural luster.
Photo credit: Erin Berzel for DK Publishing
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Stitch Grooves.Quality leathercrafters - and especially those that are hand-stitching - will make a channel for the stitching to lie in called a stitch groove. This shallow trench not only makes the stitching path clear for the hand-stitcher to follow, but more importantly allows the thread to lay flat with the surrounding leather surface, protecting it from snags and excess wear.
Photo credit: Erin Berzel for DK Publishing
- Thread Thickness.How thick is the thread? Machine stitching is almost always done with the same threads used to stitch fabric, while hand-stitchers use extra thick, strong thread, usually 3mm or 5mm thick.
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Thread Waxiness. Hand-stitchers usually use a thread called sailmaker's thread, which is waxed with beeswax or paraffin. This coating of wax makes the thread more durable, protecting it from moisture (just like sailboat sails should be!). This is usually waxed polycord but some pieces use waxed linen or cotton, or even sinew or leather lace.
Photo credit: Erin Berzel for DK Publishing
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Stitch Pattern. Saddle stitch is the signature stitch of hand-stitching and quality leathercrafters. Saddle stitch is stronger than any machine stitch because if a part of the thread were to get cut or snagged, the rest of the thread will stay intact. Look at where each stitch line ends: was it back-stitched by a machine or knotted off by hand?
Photo credit: Bag'n-telle Baseball stitch is another popular hand-stitch and is unbeatably iconic.
Photo credit: Erin Berzel for DK Publishing
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